West African Adventure - by Eldo Enns

“This is a better trip than they advertised.” Those were the words of Chris Blundell after a week on the back roads of West Africa. “We packed a couple of months into a week”, he continued, and most of us nodded coming off one of the most poignant motorcycle trips of our lives.

Almost a year earlier, CAUSE Canada had run an unusual ad in Cycle Canada about an organized motorcycle trip. What made it unusual was not the location, but firstly that CAUSE Canada is not a tour company, but a community development organization working in West Africa and Central America. Secondly, CAUSE Canada was asking riders to buy new motorcycles for a 9-day adventure and then to leave these machines in Sierra Leone. Thirdly, there was the offer to tour a part of the world that few Canadians have motorcycled before. But wait, there was this perk –  a $6,500 tax receipt for purchasing and donating the bike. Lastly, and appropriately left unmentioned, was the idea that something profound might be learned on this journey and the chances of coming back unscathed in some way were slight.

Like some of the 4-star European tours, this is not an inexpensive trip. Add another $1,500 to the $6,500 for the bike plus a flight from Canada to Freetown. Recognize that 4-star hotels don’t exist in a country where the average life expectancy is 40 years. Appreciate that the lodging is basic, but clean, and yes, the beer is cold under the hot sun. Throw a life-changing experience or two into the equation and you have the formula for the ideal motorcycle journey.

No, this is not the Paris-Dakar, but it doesn’t take us long to realize that we’re way off the grid as we tear up the untamed, rocky red dust track near the Guinea border. Nor is it difficult to recognize and trust the leadership of our Sierra Leonean guide, Oumaru Kamara. Of course, we muse over the down vest and coat he wears under the 35 degree sun, but we marvel at his speed in changing a flat, and in his geographic prowess in choosing the right path amidst the maze of trails and total absence of road signs.

Our other guide, a compelling and exceptionally visionary man from Canmore, Alberta, is the founder of CAUSE Canada. Like Oumaru, Paul Carrick has the rare gift of talking his way through police roads blocks in Africa, but his real talent emanates from his passion for the human condition. We visit many schools that Paul has been instrumental in building and quickly recognize the love and respect the Africans have for this man. This fellow biker is the reason we are on this trip.

These two have the daunting, if not virtually impossible task, of leading leaders. Chris Blundell, mechanical engineer and Dan Clarke, chemical engineer head up Calgary engineering firms. Todd Starchuck, owner of Bow Cycle and a skilled dirt-track rider, brings with him a keen mechanical expertise. David Huck, an economist from the natural gas industry has an adopted son from Sierra Leone. The Yukon’s iconic gold rush community, Dawson City, released its city manager, Eldo Enns, to join the Albertans. Political views range between Genghis Khan and Stephen Lewis; religious views or lack thereof vary even more, but as Chris emphasizes, “You can’t lose with a bunch of bike guys.” There’s a mutual respect and camaraderie here that supersedes politics and religion, and a genuine appreciation for the work that Paul and CAUSE Canada are accomplishing in Sierra Leone. Many of you Canadian Ride for Sight participants reading this article recognize the ubiquitous spirit of generosity that seems literally to pervade the Canadian biker culture at times and cross so many human barriers.

Up the gravel roads and into the Savannah we drive – eye-catching scenery, beautiful people, and a challenging trail. Conveniently, the journey begins on the rural west coast, thereby avoiding the capital.. By the second day we’ve grown used to our steeds and are thoroughly enjoying the remote roads along the Guinea border, the small villages with thatched roof dwellings, and the friendly, curious people along the way. We cross the Kaba River on a ferry propelled by many young boys pulling on a cable. This is followed by a construction zone requiring us all to take the standing bent knee stance as we execute accelerated wobbles through the softest spots.

We arrive in Kamakwie in the afternoon only to be greeted by the Paramount Chief of the region (comparable to a provincial premier). We are honoured with ceremony and dance in the square of the capital, a tribute none of us feel we deserve. Obviously, CAUSE Canada is well known and appreciated in this part of the world. Later, the chief takes us to a local disco where we feel more relaxed and in our element as we quaff Star beer at $1/bottle. I am particularly impressed with the conversation between Dan Clarke and the Paramount Chief and the financial commitment that Dan is prepared to make toward educating more Sierra Leonean post-secondary students in a country that has a 37% literacy rate. I appreciate how serious Dan is about this pledge to CAUSE Canada two days later when we visit a school that has a roof because of Dan’s generosity.

Leaving Kamakwie we head off the beaten path to Kaponkie. This village has heard of CAUSE Canada and has invited Paul Carrick to visit in order to possibly support their educational program. As we enter the schoolyard we are greeted with young children singing with all their hearts. “Overwhelming”, is the word that Todd used later. Our goal is to reach CAUSE Canada Headquarters in Kabala. We enjoy a stretch of asphalt winding through some low mountains. Given the unpredictable occurrence of potholes, none of us do much foot peg grinding on the inviting mountain curves. Once again we are greeted with a ceremony in which we actually meet and shake hands with the African community development workers who will be using our motorcycles in their future work.

The next day we meet Canadians Travis, Erin, and Nadim who feed us like kings. Ground nut soup has become a favourite. Travis takes us north into the hinterland on some of the most technical and enjoyable single tracks of our journey. It’s impressive how far into the rugged savannah CAUSE Canada has reached. Just when we least expect it, after crossing one more stream on a rough 2X6 or split tree trunk, another village emerges around the corner. It’s a pleasure watching dirt rider Todd Starchuck of Bow Cycle tear off ahead of me through this rugged terrain, rider and machine deftly moving as one through the undulating topography.

Returning happy and exhausted to Kabala after the challenging ride under the blazing sun, we decide that a day at the beach to cool off would be in order. Paul and Oumaru are receptive to our change of plans and we head off in a new direction next day for a feast of barracuda, red snapper, shrimp, crab, and lobster. After a swim in the surf the next morning we slowly make our way to Freetown via some rugged backroads that our guides happen to know about. Squalor, traffic, and chaos greet us as we weave our way through the potholes and honking vehicles to our hotel.

After a tour, shopping, and a closing feast the next day, we board a vintage ferry that chugs leisurely across the peninsula to the international airport in Lungi. The high winds and underpowered motors eventually leave us stranded sideways on the far ferry landing. People are jumping into the shallow pools and running for the shore. Vehicles, except for the odd adventure cyclist jumping off the end, are confined to the boat. Meanwhile, in the company of engineers and mechanics who love to solve problems, we focus on placing ourselves strategically just in case this ancient vessel decides to sink. Even until the last minute, the African adventure seems to go on. Ultimately, all are safely on land including our vehicle and driver.

Africa brought a small group of Canadian motorcyclists together on a most extraordinary journey. If something stays with us and spurs us to be more generous, compassionate human beings, it’ll be the images of those impoverished small villages with their hospitable inhabitants; it’ll be those challenging trails that drew us here; but most of all, it’ll be those melodic haunting, young voices of hope that surrounded us and our motorcycles and asked us not to forget them. As our guide, Oumaru pointed out to us, “Sierra Leone is regrouping after a horrible civil war and embracing a new future.” We board the plane with a fuller, if incomplete, understanding of what CAUSE Canada and the Sierra Leone people are doing together to improve the quality of life through education, agriculture and community development in one of the poorest countries on earth. We are honoured and humbled to be a minuscule part of this dream.

Paul tells us that he’s thinking about a second trip, possibly November 2009. If you have the skills to do a bit of rough road riding, this may well be the most meaningful two-wheeled journey you will ever have. This is not a trip for the faint of heart. If you’re interested in exotic trails, motorcycle adventures, the human condition, and a chance to better the quality of life for some of this planet’s less fortunate inhabitants, then you need to talk to Paul Carrick or Alanna Thompson at cause.ca   We, the four Albertans and one Yukoner, who signed up for this experience, have a parting thought for you. If you go forth without expectations as we did, you won’t be disappointed, you could be overwhelmed at times, and you may never be the same.
“In the cause of the people, the road never ends.” (African adage)